Our first port of call was the striking Danish port capital
of Copenhagen. Originally a Viking
fishing village, Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark at the beginning of
the 15th century. We had only
a short 6 hours in the city or else the boat would leave us there, so we had to
be quite organised in our sightseeing plans.
We started with a walking tour of the city. I loved that so much of the city had the
beautiful patina caused from many years of salty sea air against all the
metals.
It wouldn’t be a European capital without a good obelisk or
two. Copenhagen’s celebrates Denmark’s
transition to Lutheranism in 1536. The reliefs
around the base are all Danish reformers.
Much in the same way that Henry VIII famously decided there were
advantages to being the head of his church, King Christian III of Denmark
decided that he’d like some independence from the Pope.
In the centre of the old town, is the Fountain of
Charity. Considered highly risqué in the
1600’s when it was originally installed (certain private parts were used as the
spouts) so they nearly immediately corked it and it wasn’t fully used until the
early 1900’s. Now fully functioning,
locals are still allowed to come take water from the fountain for drinking. Um, I might just stick to my sink...
Just as we started to head out of the Old Town, we were
stopped by the parading Royal Guard. We
didn’t see anyone we thought were Royal with them so we assumed they were just
stretching their legs a bit. We had read
in a guide book before we came that often the guards often have a police escort
when they march through town leading locals to joke that they have the only
army in the world that needs police protection.
We laughed even more when we did in fact see police flanking the guards
as the processed.
We headed past the processional towards the new town. The brightly coloured buildings along the
canals were packed with people spilling out of the restaurants and cafes to
enjoy the last of the summer sunshine.
You could also tell we’d left the old town with buildings
like this one.
This building is actually their Opera House opened in
2005. Over half of it is
underground. It was donated to the city
by a wealthy oil-shipping magnate. Some politicians were offended by the
private donation, in part because the full cost of the project would be tax
deductible. Our guide said that
eventually some palms were greased and the politicians objected less.
From the Opera
House we started heading towards the icon of Copenhagen : The Little Mermaid
Statue. On our way we came across the
Gefion Fountain.
The fountain
illustrates the myth of the goddess who was given one night to carve a chunk
out of Sweden to make Denmark. According
to the tale, Gefion transformed her four sons to do the job, and the chunk she
removed from Sweden is supposedly Vanern (Sweden’s largest lake).
Finally we made
it over to The Little Mermaid.
The cliff notes
version (because I had to read it before I could go see the statue)… One day, a
young mermaid spies a passing ship and fall in love with a handsome human
prince. The ship is wrecked in a storm,
and she saves the prince’s life. To be
with the prince, the mermaid asks a sea witch to give her human legs. In exchange, she agrees to give up her voice
and the chance of ever returning to the sea.
When the prince did not return her love she prepared to die heartbroken
and alone. She was given one final
chance to live if she would kill the prince she loved on his wedding
night. But she couldn’t. The mermaid threw herself into the sea to
die. Suddenly, she’s miraculously
carried up by the mermaids on air, who give her an immortal soul as a reward
for her long-suffering love.
The statue is
actually smaller than it looks in the photos, but as they’ve cleverly put it on
a podium in the middle of the sea, you never have perspective on it.
For those wondering, we made it back to the ship with 20 minutes to spare before departure; just enough time to prepare for Germany the next day.
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