Segovia

Segovia wasn't on the radar when we were planning our trip - or even when we started on our trip. But I had mentioned to my boss on my last day of work before vacation that we were going to Madrid (she used to live/work there about 4 years ago) and a few hours later I had an email with a ton of restaurants and tour suggestions ... enough to fill a month of time just in Madrid & the surrounding areas -- MORE than enough to fill the 4 days we did have. 

One of her highly recommended side trips was Segovia. When I first read it in her note, I thought that was the name of the country in Princess Diaries that got to have Anne Hathaway join the royal family - turns out that was Genovia not Segovia.

I digress.

The first thing we discovered in Segovia was the famous Aqueduct of Segovia.

It must have been one of the largest in the Roman world. I didn't research this so don't call me out when you do and find there are several larger ones. 

The aqueduct is thought to have been built during the Flavian dynasty under the Emperor Trajan in order to carry the water of the River Acebeda to the city. The bit you see is just a small part of a stunning construction built by the Romans around the 100AD mark. This impressive work of engineering, still in excellent condition, beginning on the high end with single arches bringing the water to the tank known as El Caserón. Then, a stonework channel carries it to a second tower, and when it arrives at Plaza de Díaz Sanz, it begins to form two monumental rows of arches, one on top of the other. There is no mortar or cement between the 20,400 blocks of stone, which remain standing solidly in a perfect balance of forces. The highest point of the construction is on Plaza del Azoguejo, where it is 28.10 m high, with a total of 167 arches.

I could have stood here and studied the arches all day. And we kinda did...from every angle we could...hope you like pictures of stone arches, because here come a few...

Seriously, how did they do it so perfectly that many years ago?

Just around the corner from where the girls are standing in the last photo is a little plaque. It was placed here in 1974 and the inscription reads “Roma a Segovia en el bimilenario de su acueducto MCMLXXIV”. Or in English – “Rome to Segovia in the bimillenary of its aqueduct 1974”. Did I take a picture of that? No, no I didn't.

Adam finally lured me away from the aqueduct with promises of lunch. We ate tapas style where basically we order all our favorite snacks. Olivia is quite the fan of this style of eating. Not going to lie, the rest of us aren't against it either.

Guess who ate €10 of ham for lunch...

After eating we walked to the opposite side of Segovia’s historical center, heading towards the Segovia Cathedral.

As we walked through the backstreets, gaps in the tall, sand-colored buildings either side of us hinted glimpses of what was to come. Before long, narrow streets gave way to the wide open Plaza Mayor, home to lots more restaurants and Segovia’s impressive 14th-century cathedral.

The Segovia Cathedral took over 50 years to build, starting in 1525, after the city’s original one was destroyed by fire in 1520. It is the last cathedral of the late Gothic style in Spain (as the style was considered outdated by the time they finished building it). The current stone spire crowning the tower, dating from 1614, was erected after a major fire caused by a thunderstorm. The original spire, entirely Gothic, was built of American mahogany, had a pyramidal structure, and was the tallest tower in Spain.

Seriously watch out for fires in this place!

The inside was beautiful, ornate and each chapel tried to out do its neighbors with the level of gold and glitter. Needless to say the girls didn't want to leave.

A beautiful and "well worth it" side trip from Madrid. I'm so glad we threw it into the itinerary at the last moment!

Madrid

One week into our journey and we've made it to Spain!

And we crossed the Prime Meridian!

Oh yeah, It's also really hot!

Despite the warm weather, our stay in Madrid was packed with all the tourist trappings. Royal Palaces, Cathedrals, Museums, souvenir shopping for flamenco attire along with all the sangria and tapas we could manage -- this promised to be a busy few days.

Our first day was devoted to simply exploring the city. And not a mile from where we were staying was the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas. While most of the rest of Europe builds large stadiums for their local football (soccer for you Americans) teams, Madrid has added the third largest bull fighting ring in the world to their list of sporting complexes. I don't have any specific interest in bull fighting but I also wasn't expecting to cross paths with a 20,000 seat stadium devoted to the spectacle while walking to the metro. 

Our first metro stop took us to Puerta del Sol and breakfast, of course! The girls loved the water fountain in the square and found a street nearby named after our dear friend and my former MBA classmate in the UK (who is from Spain!). From there it's a short walk to Plaza Mayor with it's numerous restaurants lining this very large square courtyard. But it wasn't time for lunch yet so we continued on to the Cathedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena. Which is as large as it's name is long. In fact when we entered the first time we unwittingly went into the crypt thinking it was the main cathedral entrance. The chapel inside the crypt was beautiful.

But then we came around the corner and found a different entrance that took us into the actual Cathedral! The ceiling was stunning, but the alter screen was the largest I think I've ever seen. Each of the images is roughly four feet tall and standing at the base it feels enormous!

After a quick lunch, with the required sangria, our afternoon was devoted to strolling the tree lined lanes of Parque de El Retiro and letting the girls chase pigeons and play on the playgrounds while Amanda & I took in the sights of the city.

Since the heat was not expected to subside during our visit, the second day was spent inside. First at the National Archeology Museum and then at the Museo Nacional del Prado. The archeology museum was fascinating and very well done. The recommended path, which is also the only logical path once you enter the museum, takes you from prehistory through protohistory to roman settlement and on to Moorish conquest and the end of the Medieval Age. There are some additional displays on the "Modern Era" which focus on the different dynasties that have ruled Spain since the end of the Medieval Age and overall it was very insightful. Amanda however thoroughly enjoyed all of the mosaics!

just outside the Archeology Museum

life imitates art??

On our way to the Art Museum the girls found lunch, a giant archway and I found the Naval Museum.

Don't tell my father-in-law the girls' level of interest in the Naval Museum

Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed inside the Art Museum so alas no more pictures from our second day in Madrid.

On our last day in Madrid we got up early and made our way directly to the Palace. Palacio Real de Madrid is perhaps the most impressive Royal Palace I've ever seen and I like to think I've seen some good ones (Buckingham, Windsor, Hampton Court, Versailles, Catherine Palace, The Winter Palace etc.) And while it's not necessarily the largest of the ones we've been to, there is a certain feeling to it that belies adequate description. It's somehow both more approachable yet equally stately as the others at the same time. Perhaps it's due to the fact that it's still in use whereas some of the others on my list are strictly museums now. Or maybe it's all the chandeliers! But whatever the reason, it was very nice!

Charlotte was particularly taken with the royal family

I'd need a more comfortable place to sit!

Wallpaper for Mom!

After completing our Palace tour it was time for souvenirs and both girls went for "local" attire.

I'd say they believe we ended Madrid on a high note.