Situated a few miles due west of the Brecon Beacons, Dinefwr castle stands upon a ridge overlooking rolling countryside in every direction and the Towy valley to the southwest. The most impressive views are those of the River Tywi as it meanders through the valley making as its way towards the Atlantic Ocean.
Amanda and I left Bristol around a little before noon and made it to the grounds at about 1:30 pm. After receiving a pamphlet from the park attendant we made our way up to Newton house were we enjoyed one of the best National Trust lunches we’ve ever had. I got a local bread and cheese board with a side of minestrone type soup containing large chunks of ham. For dessert we split a slice of cheesecake and each had a cup of tea. It was all really good.
After lunch we made our way through Newton house which was constructed around 1600 as the primary residence on the property with the castle keep becoming a summer house. As a separate home Newton house isn’t as impressive as Croft Castle or the Dyrham Park estate but it was still well worth the 45 minutes it takes to venture through the building.
The walk to the castle is one of the more strenuous treks up the side of a hill I’ve ever had to make. The path begins by meandering through the meadows and across a small tributary with views of the castle above us in the distance. Eventually the path comes to the base of the hill upon which the castle is constructed. Like every other hill in the UK Amanda and I have come across it appeared as if we would need mountain climbing gear to reach the top. After about fifteen minutes we finally managed to climb the steepest section of the hill and had just a short walk to the summit.
All that remains of Dinefwr castle are the outer battlements and the exterior of the keep. The top of the battlements are accessible by several stairways and provide spectacular views of the surrounding country side. As we walked around the castle I marveled at the design and construction of the defenses while Amanda took some great pictures of the scenery.
Given its location perched atop a nearly inaccessible ridge several hundred feet high on three sides with thick copses of trees and a man-made (ditch fifteen feet deep and twenty feet wide) on the fourth side, I couldn’t imagine anyone being crazy enough to attempt an assault on the castle. However, Owain Glyndwr apparently tried to be that man in 1403 when he unsuccessfully laid siege to the castle. More than 100 years after the siege the castle went through an extensive rebuild thanks to Sir Rhys ap Thomas and stood until the 18th Century when it was destroyed by fire. Not much else is none about Dinefwr castle but that hardly seems to matter when standing atop the walk walls gazing over the fields and pastures far below watching the sun set between the distant hills to the west.
For our return trip we decided to take the northern route around the Brecon Beacons so we could drop down through the center of this protected landscape as the sun made its way for the horizon. It was approaching dusk as we entered the Beacons, as they are known around here, made our way south again. The Beacons are essentially exceedingly high hills (Many are actually classified mountains) that remind me a lot of the Smokey Mountains in the southeast U.S. Covered in trees and shrubs they don’t really have the harsh, rocky appearance of say the Rocky Mountains or the Alps but are still enjoyable to drive through and when the weather gets warmer will be a good spot to hike as well. Plus the entrance to the Beacons is only 45 minutes from the house. So if you are planning on coming to visit us and you want to go hiking through the English countryside I’ve got a spot already picked out.